1. Start at the Pantheon

Arrive in Rome. Drop everything. Go straight to the Pantheon.

It has been astonishing visitors since the 1st century.

Behind the Pantheon is the Basilica of Santa Maria Sopra Minerva (Saint Mary over Minerva).

Its plain facade conceals Rome's only intact Gothic interior.

Bernini sculpted the small elephant out front.

Sant’Ignazio di Loyola, five minutes east of the Pantheon, has Andrea Pozzo’s “Apotheosis of Saint Ignatius” on the ceiling. It was painted to be seen from a spot marked on the floor by a star.

Stand on the star and see if you can tell us where the architecture leaves off and the painting begins.

A view of the ceiling from the “wrong” end of the church reveals it is painted on a barrel vault.

Just north of the Pantheon, Santa Maria Maddalena has an exuberant Rococo exterior.

The dome within was designed by Carlo Fontana in 1653.

Across Piazza Maddalena is the high-end butcher Angelo Feroci.

Your photos of their magnificent food displays will turn out.

You can find four paintings by Caravaggio just west of the Pantheon. Sant’Augustino has his “Madonna of Loretto”.

Caravaggio's realistic depiction of the peasant's dirty feet shocked his contemporaries.

In 1600, Caravaggio set Rome on its ear when he unveiled his Saint Matthew trilogy of paintings in San Luigi dei Francesi, just south of Sant’Augustino.

They were a triumph for the 29 year old artist. People crowded around to see them then and we are still crowding around.

2. Around Piazza Navona

Piazza Navona is generally thronged by visitors.

Bernini’s Fontana dei Quattro Fiume (Fountain of the Four Rivers), his most perfectly sited monument, is the jewel in the centre of the piazza.

If you have time drop into the Museum of Rome in Palazzo Braschi at the south end of the piazza.

It is a small museum in a 19th century palace with superb views of the piazza from the second floor windows.

Cross the street at the north end of Piazza Navona and look for the nondescript exterior of Palazzo Altemps. Inside is a 15th century palace full of classical sculpture. You may have this splendid but little-known collection to yourself.

This mosaic and this painted plaster are from the Altemp’s thrilling Evan Gorga collection of Roman fragments.

If you are free in Rome on a Sunday morning make an effort to see Borromini’s Sant’Ivo alla Sapienza. This church is only open on Sunday mornings from 9 a.m. to noon.

Its geometric perfection is one of the high points of architecture.

All of the streets around Piazza Navona are interesting and fun to walk. We’ll highlight two. Via del Governo Vecchio (VEK-ki-oh) runs west from the south end of the Piazza.

You will find vintage clothing shops,

and easygoing bars and restaurants.

Find a table at a sidewalk bar and watch Rome go by.

Via dei Coronari runs west from the north end of Navona.

It is famous for antiques, vintage and modern clothing,

as well as welcoming bars and restaurants.

The Coronari ends up at the Bridge of Angels which crosses the Tiber to Castel Sant’Angelo. Beyond the Castel is the Vatican.

3. Across Town in Villa Borghese park

Now let’s transport ourselves to two major art galleries in the enormous Villa Borghese park on top of the Pincian Hill.

The first is the Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna e Contemporanea (National Gallery of Modern Art).

Bill and I call it the Moderna. The curators mix their 19th & 20th century art to spectacular effect.

Stairs leads us back into the park.

It is lovely to stroll in this large green space.

Many surprises here. The Tempio di Esculapio (Temple of Aesculapius) has its own pond.

You must book ahead to visit the Galleria Borghese and it is worth the effort.

They have a Raphael over the fireplace.

You’ll also find a half dozen major Caravaggios.

They also have a half dozen of Bernini’s greatest sculptures including his “Rape of Persephone.”

In the Borghese, Don't forget to look up.

The south end of the park overlooks Piazza del Popolo.

Descend into the piazza via this long stone stairway.

The stairs will deposit you at the side of the church of Santa Maria del Popolo (Our Lady of the People).

You can find two of Caravaggio’s greatest paintings in the tiny Cerasi Chapel. The pink and blue painting on the back wall of the chapel is by Caravaggio’s rival Annibale Caracci.

To the left of the Caracci, Carravagio’s “Crucifixion of St. Peter,” to the right “Conversion of St. Paul.”

Keep an eye out for Bernini’s “Daniel in the Lion’s Den” (detail).

4. Three Ways Back to the Centre

A trident of streets radiate from Piazza del Popolo into the centre.

Via del Babuino is on our left, Via di Ripetta is on our right, Via del Corso runs down the centre. Let’s start on the left.

The Babuino is a shopping street, with local, independently owned, fashion boutiques.

It leads to the Spanish Steps and the mouth of Via Condotti.

Via Condotti, a short street linking the Spanish Steps to the Corso, has Rome’s most prestigious shops – Prada, Bulgari, Cartier. Window shopping is always fun here.

Via del Corso is one of Rome’s main commercial streets. It runs North to South from Piazza del Popolo to the Capitoline Hill.

Take a left turn from the Corso onto Via dei Sabini. After a few blocks one first hears, and then one sees, the oversized, magnificent, Trevi Fountain.

Further south on the Corso, Bill and I always visit Palazzo Doria Pamphilj (pam-FEE-lee): a 17th cenury palace with Velasquez’s “Portrait of Pope Innocent X,” and three Caravaggios.

From here, one could carry on up the Quirinal Hill to the Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Antica in Palazzo Barberini (National Gallery of Antique Art). Bill and I call it the Barberini.

Its collection includes Caravaggio’s “Judith and Holofernes.”

You will climb a square staircase designed by Bernini. Be sure to descend these circular stairs at the other end of the building on your way out. They were designed by Bernini’s rival, Borromini.

The Complesso delle Quattro Fontane (Corner of the Four Fountains) is only two blocks away. Two goddesses and two river-gods occupy their own corners of the street.

Also at the corner is another Borromini masterpiece: the church of San Carlo alla Quattro Fontane. Try to see this church.

A block away from the Borommini is Bernini’s Sant'Andrea al Quirinale. It is wonderful to be able to compare church designs by these rival Baroque architects.

Now to the third street of our Piazza del Popolo trident Via di Ripetta, which passes between the newly reopened Mausoleum of Augustus (above) and the Ara Pacis.

The Ara Pacis (Altar of Peace), has an exterior by Richard Meyer.

Inside is a 1st century BCE monument to Emperor Augustus. Of the three streets of the trident, Bill and I find ourselves most often on the Ripetta because it is our most direct route to the Governo Vecchio, where we have three favourite restaurants.