Saturday, March 4, 2023

2. Around Piazza Navona

Piazza Navona is generally thronged by visitors.
Bernini’s Fontana dei Quattro Fiume (Fountain of the Four Rivers), his most perfectly sited monument, is the jewel in the centre of the piazza.
If you have time drop into the Museum of Rome in Palazzo Braschi at the south end of the piazza.
It is a small museum in a 19th century palace with superb views of the piazza from the second floor windows.
Cross the street at the north end of Piazza Navona and look for the nondescript exterior of Palazzo Altemps. Inside is a 15th century palace full of classical sculpture. You may have this splendid but little-known collection to yourself.
This mosaic and this painted plaster are from the Altemp’s thrilling Evan Gorga collection of Roman fragments.
If you are free in Rome on a Sunday morning make an effort to see Borromini’s Sant’Ivo alla Sapienza. This church is only open on Sunday mornings from 9 a.m. to noon.
Its geometric perfection is one of the high points of architecture.
All of the streets around Piazza Navona are interesting and fun to walk. We’ll highlight two. Via del Governo Vecchio (VEK-ki-oh) runs west from the south end of the Piazza.
You will find vintage clothing shops,
and easygoing bars and restaurants.
Find a table at a sidewalk bar and watch Rome go by.
Via dei Coronari runs west from the north end of Navona.
It is famous for antiques, vintage and modern clothing,
as well as welcoming bars and restaurants.
The Coronari ends up at the Bridge of Angels which crosses the Tiber to Castel Sant’Angelo. Beyond the Castel is the Vatican.

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