5. Across the River in Trastevere

Trastevere runs north to south along the Tiber River.

It is a fun place to walk. The streets are crammed with colour and life and are lined with bars and restaurants. You could spend a great day walking from one end to the other,

with lunch in the middle and stops for regular refuelling.

Let's start in the south at Santa Cecilia in Trastevere.

It is a magnificent 5th century church with much to see.

After your visit be sure to ring the doorbell next to the church entrance. The nuns will put you in an elevator to the choir loft,

where you can see 13th century frescos by Pietro Cavallini.

Walk north to Santa Maria in Trastevere. It is a magical place with a strong, religious feeling. Mosaics over the entrance date from the 12th century.

More Pietro Cavalini here. He did the mosaics over the altar (the ones under the line of sheep) in the 13th century.

Above the line of sheep, by unknown artists of the 12th century, we find Christ and His Mother enthroned.

Further north, Santa Maria della Scala is a large, but intimate and atmospheric church with a great feeling of calm. One of our favourite churches in Rome.

Take a seat in a pew. It will give you time to take it all in.

Be sure to look down: the floor is made of carved memorials.

Further north, the Porta Settimiana will lead you to three wonderful sites: the Villa Farnesina, the Galleria Corsini and the Botanical Gardens.

The Villa Farnesina, with its Raphael frescoes, is a must-see.

The intimacy of the Corsi collection of small paintings arranged in an 18th century style makes it a nice change from the opulence of the Farnesina.

The Orto Botanico (Botanical Gardens) is a much needed green space in a busy city. The entrance is right beside the Corsini and across the street from the Farnesina.

Find a mature bamboo forest among other treasures.

The Ponte Sisto will bring us back to the Centro Storico.