7. Early Christian Churches

We’ll highlight one early Christian church near the train station and three near the Colosseum. Churches close in the afternoon so visit in the morning.

Santa Prassede, near the train station, has some of Rome's most unforgettable mosaics.

Head straight for the 9th century Chapel of Saint Zeno.

It is a gem with much to marvel at.

Now you can relax and enjoy the rest of the church. Santa Maria Maggiore and Palazzo Massimo are both a short walk away. Either would fill out your morning nicely.

There are three superb early Christian churches near the Colosseum. San Clemente is a 12th century church, built over a 4th century church, built over a 1st century Roman house.

The ground-level church is prized for its 12th century mosaics.

The ticket office sells postcards with superb details.

But the real draw is underground. Stairs lead to the excavation of an earlier church in use from the 4th to the 11th centuries. There are rare frescos: such as this ninth century detail of Christ’s apostles watching his ascension (Pope Leo IV at left).

1st century stairs, built during the construction of the Colosseum, lead to a 1st century Roman house. In the 2nd century part of the house was rebuilt as a temple of the god Mithras.

Two blocks from San Clemente, up the Caelian Hill, is the 9th century Quattro Santi Coronati (Four Crowned Martyrs).

Before you enter, don't miss the frescos in the 13th century Chapel of Saint Sylvester. Ring the bell by the locked door, a nun will appear behind a grill and buzz you in for a nominal fee.

Puzzle out the story of St. Sylvester from the tantalizing details.

Within the church is a cloister with a mellow fountain – an oasis of peace steps away from the squalor of the Colosseum.

Further up the Caelian Hill is the 5th century San Stefano Rotundo (Saint Stephen in the Round). One of the few churches in Rome built to a circular plan.

This Google Satellite screengrab shows the splendor of the 5th century plan from above.

This wall is lined with frescoes depicting Christian martyrdoms. These images require tremendous empathy as both foregrounds and backgrounds teem with mayhem.

Who is this man with his head in his hands?